244 Days with the Fuji X-T2

During this review I will talk about the fuji x-t2 Samyang lens review and show plenty of images I have shot

If you told me this time last year I would no longer be lumping around my 21kg camera bag full of Canon gear, I would have most likely have laughed at you. Thanks to a loan of the Fuji X-T2 over a long weekend in September 2016 and a promise I would not be disappointed, here I am now with my second blog about the camera. You will notice a few things with my blogs….. I am rubbish at writing (cheers dyslexia)…. I dont like writing a lot…. And I do not write blogs very often.

 It has been 244 days since I got my Fuji and had sold all My Full frame Dslr gear and still to this day I do not miss it in the slightest. The only thing I miss is the lens selection that I did have, but that is only due to me having not built up my collection of Fuji lens yet, they are getting there now though.

I have used the camera primarily for Landscapes, cityscapes, seascapes and night sky shots. I have been using it out in all elements and it has not given me any issues. I have had it out in the rain and high winds of the Peak district in the middle of winter and it keeps on going fine. The camera has even been knocked about while using it and I have still not noticed any scratches on it yet.

The best user functions on the camera for me have to be the very responsive Live view, viewfinder and the tilt screen. Next up has to be the dual slot sd then it has to be the Focus peaking. This I have found to work best for me in  low red. It would appear that you can get the focus most accurate with that

My X-T2 Loves having a photo taken in the local environment as you can see below

Padley Gorge Febuary 2017… Raining
Holme Pierrepont Hall, Nottingham. Febuary 2017. Hiding away from the rain.
Holme Pierrepont Hall, Nottingham. Febuary 2017. Raining
Torside Reservoir, Peak District, March 2017. Nice and sunny
MamTor. Peak district. March 2017. Very very windy and raining

Here are a few of the images that were shot at the locations above.

These were all shot using the Fuji 10-24mm Lens. In my opinion if you are going to be going out to shoot a lot of landscapes then make the investment, it is reliable, sharp and most often found on the front of my camera.

Fuji 10-24 mm @10mm, iso 100, f/11 and 1/8th sec. Shot with a Formatt Hitech Filters Firecrest .9 (3 stop) soft grad on the older 100mm
Fuji 10-24 mm @11mm, iso 100, f/8 and 0.5 sec. Using the with the Formatt Hitech Filters 0.6 soft grad Firecrest
Fuji 10-24 mm @10mm, iso 100, f/9 and 30 sec with Format 10 stop Firecrest and 3 stop soft grad resin filter
Fuji 10-24mm @10mm, iso 100, f/8 and 1/3 sec. Also using the Formatt Hitech Filters .9 resin nd and .6 soft grad

 

3rd party lens

I also mentioned earlier that I shoot other subjects too. I like to shoot a lot of night skies and architecture.

For this style of shooting I have found the Samyang 12 mm f/2 lens to again be worth every penny I spent on it.

As you can see on the below image, edge to edge sharpness and the colour that flows through the shot makes it a great wide angle lens that is not going to cost you a fortune. This lens is always in my bag and normally comes out at night.

Samyang 12mm at f/8 iso 100 and 15 sec exposure

My Masters uni shooting

For part of my Masters studies work I am shooting some odd subjects that you can read about else where on my. For this it involves a lot of studio light and a nice wide angle lens for the job. Luckily Samyang have just launched the Fuji fit tilt shift lens that is now next on my list to add to the collection

RAF Colitishall with the 10-24mm lens
RAF Colitishall with the 10-24mm lens
RAF Colitishall with the 10-24mm lens

I like to shoot a lot, but who does not. I also like to take my time, creating work for me is not about taking as many photos as possible, it is about getting the right one. That is what I like about the Fuji, it is is small and discrete but still produces that image you need. I have found that people dont notice you with it as much. Having Just shot a local festival in Norfolk where I used the Canon 5dmkIII and the Pentax 645z last year, if I am completely honest I was a little interested and also worried about how well the camera would perform with fast moving subjects in varying lighting conditions

So next stop was the Norfolk and Norwich Festival

For this I had a selection of lens but I found I was mostly using the 16-55mm and the 100-400mm as this was covering most of what I was needing to shoot.

I found the camera to be responsive with keeping up with the action and when I needed it to take a image it was ready. The nicest part of the shooting for me has to be the detail and the colour that is captured in each shot

100-400mm lens @243mm. iso 500. f/5.6 and 1/1600th sec
35mm lens. iso 200. f/1.8 and 1/2500th sec
100-400mm lens @115mm. iso 200. f/4.6 and 1/640th sec
16-55mm lens @53mm. iso 100. f/4 and 1/640th sec
16-55mm lens @16mm. iso 640. f/4 and 1/2000th sec
10-24mm lens @10mm. iso 250. f/6.4 and 1/160th sec

Fast things.

Raf Marham and Raf Conninsby

A good way to play with lens is to head to the nearest MOD airfield and have a session with the lens there. Fast yet, lots of noise and  a great subject to shoot. It was after shooting here that I realised that I was going to have to think a bit more about how the Auto focus would work at its best.

Fuji 100-400mm @ 243mm, iso 250, f/5.6 and 1/1000th sec
Fuji 100-400mm @ 158mm, iso 400, f/5.6 and 1/1600th sec
Fuji 100-400mm @ 400mm, iso 250, f/6.4 and 1/800th sec
Fuji 100-400mm @ 153mm, iso 400, f/6.4 and 1/1250th sec

British Super Bikes

The next stop to talk about was the British super bikes free practice at Snetterton Race circuit

For this I took the Fuji 100-400mm lens

For this session it was going to be a challenge. It was a very nice warm day but the wind was blowing a good one all day. To the point that it was bowing you about when trying to pan. Having now had a good mess about with the focus settings on the camera, I concluded that best for me to shoot with the lens were the focus set on Af-C and then set on zone 5 with single point focusing being the way I got the best results. And if I am honest I also found that  with the burst rate on CL it was more than adequate for what I needed

Fuji 100-400 handheld at 132mm.  Iso100. f/8 and 1/250th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 148mm.  Iso100. f/8 and 1/320th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 301mm.  Iso100. f/7.1 and 1/320th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 400mm.  Iso100. f/8 and 1/320th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 400mm.  Iso100. f/8 and 1/320th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 176mm.  Iso100. f/4.8 and 1/320th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 400mm.  Iso100. f/7.1 and 1/500th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 124mm.  Iso100. f/4.6 and 1/400th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 138mm.  Iso100. f/7.1 and 1/500th sec
Fuji 100-400 handheld at 312mm.  Iso100. f/5.2 and 1/500th sec
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